Bezel Setting Cabochon Gemstones: A Beginners Guide

Jan 22

What is a cabochon gemstone?

A cabochon gemstone is characterised by having a flat base and a domed crown. A cabochon generally refers to a gemstone without facets, where the crown is polished smooth, but it can also be used to describe rosecut cabochons and chequerboard cabochons, which are characterised by having flat bases and faceted crowns.

*Left to Right: A smooth amber cabochon, a chequerboard citrine cabochon, and a rose cut citrine cabochon*

What is a bezel setting?

A bezel setting is a setting created by encircling a gemstone all the way around the circumference with a metal band. The top edge of the metal band is then pushed over the gemstone to hold it in place. A bezel setting is well suited for all kinds of cabochon gemstones.

The right height is everything…

The very most important thing to consider when setting a cabochon in a bezel setting is the height of the metal in comparison to the gemstone itself. It is necessary to ensure that there is enough height in the wall of the setting to secure the gemstone in place when the top of the bezel is pushed over. If the height of the bezel wall is too great then the crown of the stone will be unnecessarily obscured.

The optimum height for a bezel setting is just above the shoulder where the cabochon begins to curve over, but remember that all stones are unique, therefore each setting has to be tailored accordingly. In order to achieve this the setting is sanded or filed down using emery paper or a flat file.

*Gemstone setting examples left to right: Too shallow, just right, too high*

The Tools

There are many ways to bezel set a stone but when starting out you can achieve great results with just three tools. A Ring Vice, a pusher and a burnisher.

A Ring Vice (above) is a wooden clamp that holds the setting securely so that pressure can be applied to the bezel when setting the stone. This tool is designed for setting gemstones in rings but it also works well for gemstone stud earrings and pins.

A Pusher (above) is a square profiled steel rod with a wooden handle that is used to push the top edge of the bezel setting over the gemstone. Work your way around the stone gently moving the walls of the bezel setting inwards and onto the stone. When using a pusher it is better to work a little at a time moving the metal in small increments. You may have to go around the stone a few times in order to secure it in place. You will know when the gemstone is fully secure as you won’t be able to see any gaps between the metal and the crown of the gemstone and there won’t be any movement in the stone at all.

A Burnisher (above) is smooth steel hand tool that can either be straight or curved. It is used after the pusher to achieve a smooth and even finish on the edge of the bezel setting by compressing the metal and eliminating small imperfections. To use a burnisher rub it all the way around the top edge of the setting until you have achieved an even finish all around.

Bezel settings can be hand finished with a polishing cloth or pendant motor.